Portia's - A Southern-Style Restaurant

by Tim Slivinski

Just for the record, I am not from the South nor have I ever lived in the South. I have actually spent relatively little time in the South, other than South Florida, which we all know is not really the South anyway. However, in my years of dining—and there are many because I am old—I have come to have an appreciation and a palate for many cuisines of the world and of our great, diverse nation. Therefore, I know for certain that some of the best comfort food in the world comes from our very own South. It’s not fussy; it’s not fancy. It’s just flavorful good food, especially when it’s made right. And the new kid (or should I say pig?) on the block, Portia’s, is doing it very right.

Located just a block or so east of Andrews on the north side of Oakland Park Blvd., Portia’s is a comfortable, warm, friendly place that will have you feasting on well-made comfort food and leaving satisfied. Walking in, there is a small dining room on the left with a larger dining area to the right. White tablecloths and linen napkins add a touch of class to the friendly vibe. On a recent rainy and windy night—just right for old-fashioned comfort food—we were shown to a corner booth and settled in to peruse the extensive menu offerings. In less than a minute, Bill, our most amiable and affable server, came to our table with cracklins, complimentary munchies, and inquiring about our drink preference. We chatted for a moment about this being our first visit and then ordered two glasses of Pinot Grigio.

When Bill returned with our wine, he explained some details about the menu to us and offered some suggestions. This man knows his menu. We didn’t hesitate to place an order of Fried Green Tomatoes ($6.95) to feast on while we contemplated and discussed dinner decisions. When the appetizer arrived, it was clear they were freshly made in house. No, they weren’t perfectly round and even, and that’s all to the good. Freshly dipped in a great crunchy breading, they were crisp and tangy and not at all greasy. The accompanying dipping sauce was a mild horseradish sauce that had just the right amount of heat. We were out for a leisurely dinner, but they did not last long on the plate.

I am a devotee of fried chicken, but I rarely order it because I hate to waste the calories on fried chicken that is sub-par. This night, I decided to throw caution to the wind and indulge. Portia’s offers its fried chicken entrée in either a two piece dinner ($10.95) or a three piece dinner ($13.95). Even better you can select any combination of pieces you desire: breasts, legs, thighs, or wings. I opted for the two piece dinner of a breast and a thigh. The menu states and Bill had told us to allow up to 20 minutes for the preparation. Let me tell you, I would have waited twice that long once the entrée arrived and I tasted it. It is what Southern Fried Chicken should be. Crackly and crispy with secret spice batter on the outside that opens to reveal chicken that is juicy and moist. Decadently delicious. The chef brines the chicken for 24 hours, helping to create that moist juiciness so often lacking in poultry. From a long list of signature side dishes, I had selected Macaroni and Cheese (big surprise) and Collard Greens. Both sides were pleasing, with the collards having just enough smoky pork flavor and the mac and cheese just gloppy enough—that’s a compliment in my book—to be like mom’s. Fussy food? No, but so very delicious.

My partner has a thing for chicken livers ($12.95), so when he saw them on the menu, I knew there would be no other choice for him. When his plate arrived, a heaping portion of fresh chicken livers that had been coated with a secret flour mixture arrived in all their crunchy glory. He proclaimed them tender and moist with just the right amount of crunch as they began to disappear from his plate. As his sides, he selected Pickled Beets, another of his favorites, and the Macaroni and Cheese. He relished the beets, saying they were just like he remembered at his grandma’s house when she cooked dinner. His portion was so generous, that several of the livers were going home with him as lunch the next day.

Throughout our experience, Bill checked frequently to make sure everything tasted great—it did!—and to answer any questions we had as well as refill wine and water glasses. Portia’s menu has several entrees that are in my future. Chicken and Dumplings, Bacon Wrapped Meatloaf, Chicken Pot Pie, and Catfish with Hush Puppies all caught my eye. An appetizer—Potato Rolls with Cheese Dipping Sauce—will be on my table too. Two gentlemen near us were sharing it and raving about it. It looked very tasty.

Great food at reasonable prices in a comfortable atmosphere with attentive, knowledgeable service—Portia’s has it all going on. If you like Southern food and have not let yourself indulge in the real thing in quite some time, then head to Portia’s. They do a heck of a job with true Southern cuisine.