Lola's On Harrison, American Fare with a Twist

 -by Tim Slivinski

Take the short drive down US 1 to Hollywood for dinner and step into the comforting world of Lola’s on Harrison for dinner. The simple, yet elegant dining room is anchored on the left by a comfortable bar that invites you sit and sip a cocktail, a beer, or a glass of wine before or after dinner. The soothing grey, black, and white tones are restful and peaceful in a dining room that holds approximately fourteen tables with a banquette area along the far right wall.

Owner and Chef Michael Wagner opened Lola’s almost four years ago, and ever since he and his staff have been preparing excellent food that takes a unique twist on some classic American dishes. Begin your meal with an appetizer such as Salmon Tartare. The salmon arrives fresh, dressed with sesame-lemon vinaigrette, giving it an inviting  pungency and zest. Crispy wontons add a touch of crispiness, and jalapeno chili oil adds just the right kick. The whole dish comes together beautifully in its presentation, mouthfeel, and flavor. Try an interesting twist on Nachos that arrive in three colors, smothered in cheese and set off by a piquant tomatillo-poblano salsa and dressed with smoked tomato relish. You will wish they came in an entrée sized portion, they are that delicious.

There are various salad options on the menu, including a Warm Goat Cheese Salad that is prepared with pistachio crusted goat cheese along with Belgian endive and arugula set off by fresh raspberries and dressed with raspberry-shallot vinaigrette. It is a fresh salad combining sweet and savory flavors that wake up with the palate.  Other salad choices in  a roasted beet salad and Swank Farm’s wedge salad that hearkens back to the days of classic salads with 1000 Island dressing.

For dinner, try one of Chef Michael’s signature dishes: the Grilled Skirt Steak. I have ordered it several times and it never disappoints. The steak is grilled to your doneness and is accompanied by a Housemade Steak sauce thtat complements the steak beautifully without overpowering it. It is a savory auce that highlights the tender goodness of the steak. Also on the plate are Parmesan Potatoes Au Gratin, perhaps one of the most delicious uses of this common starch I have ever tasted on a restaurant menu, Creamy cheesy goodness in every bite, I could eat entire casserole dish of these spuds.

Rib eaters will take great delight in Chef Michael’s Coca-Cola BBQ Ribs. They are slow roasted to fall of the bone tenderness and bathed in Lola’s Signature BBQ sauce. Messy as ribs should be, it’s hard to leave one morsel on your plate at the end of the meal. In another winner of an accompaniment are Buttermilk Onion Rings that are served with the ribs. Crunchy and bursting with sweet onion flavor, just allow yourself the decadence of enjoying each bite. The onion rings can also be ordered as a side dish with any entrée. Do it if you love onion rings as I do.

Other entrée options include a delicious crackly Chicken Breast Milanese over a green, leafy spring mix with a  whole grain mustard vinaigrette,  a hearty Milk Fed Veal Chop “Oscar” that is topped  with Lump Crab meat and an Herb Hollandaise, or a Whole Wheat Pappardelle Bolognese made with hand cut New York Sirloin and San Marzano Tomatoes.

If you are a beer aficionado, then Lola’s has one of the very best and eclectic beer menus in all South Florida. Heather, who runs the front of the house, used to run a beer bar on Wall Street. She has managed to pull together an amazing array of beers that will have any beer lover salivating. If you cannot decide which brew to choose, Lola’s offers several beer flights that will permit a sampling of various beers in similar flavor profiles from lightest to boldest.  

Service at Lola’s is always friendly and attentive, but not overly so. The servers have a keen sense of when to show up tableside and when to just leave you to dine in peace. And Lola’s is the kind of spot that makes you want to sit back and enjoy a relax and enjoy the experience of dining out. So, the next time you have a hankering for some unusual and delicious twists on some old American favorites, head just a little south to Lola’s. Chances are good that your first trip won’t be your last trip.