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Utah Unleashed
Part III: Moab and Salt Lake City
by Paul Rubio

Anchored by protected lands teeming with extraordinary natural arches and more otherworldly dimensions of tiered red rock landscapes, Moab (discovermoab.com) has evolved as the gateway to one of Utah’s most impressive and popular parks, the 73,000-acre Arches National Park (nps.gov/arch). Unlike Capitol Reef and Monument Valley, Arches’ accessibility from Salt Lake City and its thriving airport means unleashing your Utah with a helluva lot of tourists, who’ve also traveled from far and wide to witness the 2000 plus natural sandstone arches, namely the world-famous Delicate Arch.

 

From the visitor’s center, the heavily trafficked road climbs at a steep grade to the Park’s Entrance, ascending through twists and turns to various sightseeing points and hiking trails. These stops are wonderfully mapped out on the National Park’s pamphlet, but those who were savvy as kids in defining cloud shapes will quickly recognize points like “Park Avenue, ”a large rock formation that resembles a long block of tall city skyscrapers. With such an abundance of arches and sights, you basically have to pick and choose which you’d like to see. Which not to miss? First, the Devils Garden Trailhead to Landscape Arch is a three for one, also passing through Pine Tree Arch, and Tunnel Arch. Fiery Furnace provides a terrific view of jagged and rough rock resembling volcanic lava. And of course the 3.0-mile trail to Delicate Arch is easily the highlight of any trip to Utah. Strutting its beauty over a steep precipice, framing the best of Utah’s landscapes within its perimeter, Delicate Arch has rightfully become the icon of Utah and a beacon for travel to this scintillating red rock country.

 

In close proximity to Arches National Park, Moab is Utah’s equivalent to Jackson Hole – an upscale but homey town with plenty of places to stay, from high-end to mediocre, a variety of choices for food establishments, and booking facilities for all outdoor activities whether summer or winter. One of the superlative lodge experiences is found at Sorrel River Ranch (sorrelriver.com), north and east of Moab along Highway 128 that runs contiguous to the Colorado River. Sorrel is top-notch luxury resort that provides the full throttle “glamping” experience with swimming pools, rustic meets modern luxe cabins, and haute amenities, nestled among picturesque canyon walls along the path of the Colorado River. The Sorrel River Ranch offers horseback riding from its own stables in addition to providing bookings for river rafting, Hummer drive/rides, ATV rental, fishing, hiking and other outdoor activities.

 

Salt Lake City

No matter the middle chapters of your “Choose Your Own Adventure” Utah, your story will always begin and end in the state’s controversial capital, Salt Lake City.

 

Fear not, Salt Lake City is not nearly as scary in person as it seems on TV. In fact, the city surprises with its pockets of big city sophistication, including the Sugar House gayborhood, with lots of fab real estate, a 24-hour fitness center equipped with plenty of eye candy, and GLBT-friendly restaurants and shops like Diva’s Cupcakes & Coffee, and the 50 year old eatery Finn’s Café.

 

While residential Sugar House merits a visit for getting your food and drink on, the city’s best accommodations are found downtown. Kimpton’s Hotel Monaco Salt Lake City (monaco-saltlakecity.com) is hands-down the place to start and end your Utah sojourn. Ironically just blocks away from Temple Square and the spires of the LDS Church, the Hotel Monaco SLC embraces the GLBT community with open arms. So much so that it hosts the annual GLBT “Red Party” fundraiser, a benefit party for the Utah AIDS Foundation (utahaids.org) which turns into the all-out dance party of the year the Thursday before World AIDS Day. In summer, the Monaco also hosts the annual “Pink Party” to kick off Salt Lake City’s gay pride, which rounded up 35,000 supporters in 2011. And in any season, the hotel celebrates eccentricity and individuality through its gregarious staff and patrons, whimsical and funky guest rooms, and its see and be seen restaurant Bambara (below). An über cool adaptive reuse of the former First Continental Bank, the Hotel Monaco SLC has kept some of the bank’s original elements like the vault, and the circa early 20th century gold elevators while completely re-inventing the interiors. In keeping with the freebie heavy traditions of the Kimpton brand, complimentary WiFi, coffee, and nightly wine hours are just an added bonus. Almost every restaurant and coffee house near the hotel distributes Q Salt Lake, the city’s gay rag. If you want to know what’s up in SLC before heading west, check out their website qsaltlake.com. Most gay nightlife options like Jam, Pure, and Metro will require a 10-15 minute taxi, but it’s well worth it.

Gay hot-spot Bambara 

Finally, in the spirit of open-mindedness and learning about other cultures, take the time to stroll down a few blocks from the hotel to visit Temple Square, the headquarters of the LDS church. Here, you’ll be approached by young women on mission, eager to show you around the square and tell you about life in the church and the doctrine of continuing revelation. You’ll be staring at larger-than-life photos of the church’s current president, Thomas S. Monson, who they consider to be a modern-day "prophet, seer, and revelator" and listening to “recordings” of Jesus Christ. Honestly, it’s fascinating. They might even try to convert you, as they did me. But when the girls asked me to join the LDS church, I told them, “Sorry girls, I can’t join. I am gay.” To which they replied, “That’s ok. We can get you help. And it’s okay to be gay. You just can’t practice.” Lucky for me, I’ve had plenty of practice...(and plenty in Utah to say the least)!

 
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