I once dismissed St. Thomas as nothing more than another homogeneous cruise ship destination chock full o’ fanny-packed freaks, tax-free shopaholics, and predatory tourist operators, littering the streets, the mountainsides, and bays with their daunting presence. Yet late last year, on my third trip to the island, I was introduced to St. Thomas’ lesser-known eastern reaches, and have since reaped the rewards of taking the road less traveled. My apologies, St. Thomas. I underrated you.

 

Far beyond the McDonald’s and the neon fanny packs, the sleepy towns in and around the east end have evolved as pockets of seaside glamour, a delicate blend of West Indian flavor and wealthy expat investment. The serenity and laid-back vibe on this part of the island, often lumped as Red Hook Bay, reveal a gentler, more welcoming side, and an ideal foundation for the US Virgin Islands most esteemed resort, the Ritz-Carlton, St. Thomas.

 

Straddling the downy sands and crystalline waters of Great Bay, the Ritz-Carlton, St. Thomas assumes its rightful role as ambassador to the island’s natural bounties and luxurious offerings. The hotel’s fortitude stems from an atypical equilibrium between traditional West Indian elegance and modern luxury.  Even in its most recent renovation last year, the Ritz-Carlton St. Thomas kept a style true to its location and cultural surroundings, forgoing trends of hypermodern, minimalist overhauls. Its barefoot luxury and tropical elegance are constant reminders of the beach’s splendor and the Caribbean’s vibrant colors. Every room ends in a private terrace or balcony, the ideal spot for absorbing the azure serenity and the lush hilltops dotting petite peninsulas. The spa’s outdoor treatment pavilion edges over the bay’s crashing waves, ambushing your senses with everything ocean as the world’s best therapists work magic on your body. The resort’s 53-foot catamaran, Lady Lynsey, sails into the horizon come late afternoon, grabbing a front row seat for the sun’s awe-inspiring descent. Under the twinkle of starry nights, the hotel transforms Grand Bay beach into your own private open-air dining room, with champagne at the ready and a six-course meal at your leisure.

 

Given its prime waterfront location, the Ritz-Carlton St. Thomas teems with opportunity for taking full advantage of the sand and sea. Unlimited use of paddle boats, kayaks, Hobie cats, windsurfers, and snorkel equipment means you’ll have way too much fun traversing Grand Bay in, under, and above water.  Besides her sensational sunset cruise, Lady Lynsey sets sail for neighboring St. John several times per week for a quick evening island hop to indulge in St. John’s awesome dining and bar scene (note: the tuna at Rhumb Lines is epic). Those keener on poolside R & R can enjoy the postcard perfect views from the 125ft free-form infinity edge pool, cocktails in hand. And those feeling a bit more private can indulge in the vistas either from the comfort of the Club Lounge (with its full Cruzan Rum Bar and unlimited champagne) or there’s always your private deck.

 

More than a mere outpost of a high-end chain, the Ritz-Carlton, St. Thomas discloses a multi-faceted spirit uncommon to the Caribbean. The hotel’s warm “come as you are” philosophy lends to a rare, genuine acceptance of gay travelers, especially in this vastly homophobic region of the world. Though dozens of Caribbean hotels do carry some kind of “gay-friendly” label (especially in today’s desperate quest for the gay dollar), the Ritz-Carlton St. Thomas welcomed the GLBT globetrotter and alternative families long before it was politically correct or corporately mandated.  There’s simply no faking the warmth and respect I receive when my partner and I vacationed here. 

 

Eighty-one countries deep into my travels, my time at the Ritz-Carlton, St. Thomas goes on record as one of the greatest experiences of my travel-writing career. It’s undeniably one of the globe’s the most well rounded resorts, effortlessly fusing dissimilar elements of signature Ritz-Carton decadence with beachfront simplicity, facilitating a complete disconnect from the world at large and inspiring an unexpected love for the quiet eastern shores of St. Thomas.

 

To experience the “Caribbean Queen” visit: www.ritzcarlton.com/StThomas or call 1.340.775.3333. No passport required for visiting the US Virgin Islands, including St. Thomas.