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Lesser-Known Treasures of Southeast Asia
By Paul Rubio Though globalization and affordable airfares have fostered
unprecedented access to the far reaches of Southeast Asia, for
the most part, the countries of Cambodia and Laos still remain
far removed from the beaten path. Cambodia is still working to
shed a tarnished image of the notoriously violent and bloody
Khmer Rouge while Laos continues to recover from the harsh
reality of prolific landmines and unexploded bombs planted by
the U.S. military during the Vietnam War. Nevertheless,
political hardships and economic challenges have failed to
destroy the spirit of the Cambodian and Laos people. Foreigners
are highly welcomed and even revered. Both countries have worked
arduously to facilitate tourism and share their world of
enlightening culture, historic monuments, Buddhist temples,
dramatic landscapes, and progressive mindsets with curious
globetrotters. Most notably, the fabulous cities of Siem Reap
and Luang Prabang, have taken center stage in this tourism
revolution and should not be missed on a visit to Southeast
Asia. Siem Reap, Cambodia Siem Reap is host to the spellbinding ancient city of Angkor. Spread over 37 square miles, the capital of the Khmer Kingdom between 802 and 1295 is a seemingly endless series of intricate and fascinating religious complexes deep in the Cambodian jungle. Hidden by dense foliage in remote obscurity for centuries, Angkor was discovered 150 years ago, its intangible power still omnipresent. While the emblematic four spires of Angkor Wat remain the principal draw, some of the city’s other temples are even more impressive. The centerpiece of Angkor Thom, Bayon, is a hypnotic towering collection of stone faces and meticulously engraved outer walls depicting daily life and the history of the Khmer Kingdom. Picturesque, overgrown tree roots strangle the ruins of Ta Prohm, even more striking in person than in Tomb Raider. The city’s splendor easily rivals and even surpasses the magnificence of the recently declared New Seven Wonders of the World (the Great Wall of China, Jordan’s ancient city of Petra, Brazil’s Christ the Redeemer statue, Peru’s Machu Picchu, Mexico’s Chicen Itza, the Roman Colosseum, India’s Taj Mahal, and Egypt’s Great Pyramid of Giza). Beyond history and archaeology, Siem Reap boasts a raging nightlife scene on par with Thailand’s greatest cities. The night market is a concentrated conundrum of cheap restaurants, bars catering to foreigners, exotic fruit stands, massage parlors and stands (going rate - $5/hr) and hundreds of giant fish tanks with fish ready to chew off your dead skin! The so-called “Dr. Foot Fish Massage” is a must try. But note that the “massage” gets cheaper and the tanks get bigger as you go further from the market (my partner and I shared a couples’ foot massage with two Japanese girls for one hour at the price of $1.50 in a family sized plastic swimming pool). Siem Reap’s most popular gay bar, the rainbow-flagged Linga Bar (www.lingabar.com), is smack-dab in the center of downtown’s Pub Street. The drag show here is amazing (think dozens of Jujubees and beautiful lady boys) far more entertaining than the persistent “sticky rice” patrons! Hotels
in Siem Reap run the gamut from $10/night hostels to one of the
world’s most exclusive hotels. For unabashed pampering,
Amansara(www.amanresorts.com)
is the ultimate Cambodia crash pad, an immaculate reconception
of King Sihanouk’s former guesthouse circa 1962. Clean, linear
design dominates the hotel landscape, with private saltwater
plunge pools tucked behind floor to ceiling glass doors of
double tiered modern suites, accessorized with terrazzo and
rich, dark woods. This perfection of design geometry and
symmetry is matched by the stellar service. Luang Prabang, Laos The entire city of Luang Prabang is considered a UNESCO World Heritage Site, noted for its surplus of natural majesty and 32 stunning Buddhist temples alongside French colonial architecture and robust cultural spirit. The limestone pools at Kuang Si Falls, Luang Prabang’s most famous waterfall, bustle with scantily clad monks splashing around sans robe and basking in the fresh, pristine waters. The majority of the city’s temples lie perched over the Mekong River, each one more picturesque than the next. Boats flow up and down the Mekong passing through scenes of lush mountains and verdant beauty. The
city itself feels frozen in time, though its tolerant vibe has
made it a favorite for expat-Asian gay couples and a growing gay
scene. Most bars remain mixed (see
www.utopia-asia.com for listings), but several notable
restaurants are gay owned and operated, including L'Elephant
Restaurant et Salon de thé and Couleur Café. In keeping with the
town’s cultural heritage, the city’s prized hotel, Amantaka (www.amanresorts.com),
unassumingly blends into the tranquility and the elegant
simplicity of Luang Prabang. The oversized sumptuous suites at
Amantaka are a splendid re-invention of the town’s former French
colonial hospital. Sally Struthers Moment: Tat Kuang Si Rescue Center, Laos The only wildlife rescue center in Laos works with moon bears and sun bears that were brutally tortured for the bear bile trade. Chinese, Vietnamese, and Korean practitioners of traditional medicine pay top dollar for the bear’s digestive fluids, extracted from the gall bladder of shackled bears who spend their lives hooked up to tubes. Although the healthful effects of this “miracle fluid” have never been proven, that has not stopped the region from completely decimating its bear population. Almost three dozen lucky bears have been rescued and adopted at Tat Kuang Si (www.freethebears.com.au/bearprojects/laos.html), outside of Luang Prabang. Their stories are heartbreaking, but experiencing their charisma and curiosity will inspire you to support wildlife conservation. Consider donating to this charity and making a difference in the world. |
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