Forget what you think you know; Ethiopia will ambush your senses.  

Present day Ethiopia hardly matches its destitution and famine profile of the early 1980s, when big haired celebrities gathered for the glam-rock Live Aid concert and pictures of starving children dominated the television waves. In fact, the majority of modern day Ethiopia is an accessible and rewarding sojourn to a land of eye-opening culture, nature, and history. 

The landlocked northeastern African landmass reveals the bewildering anthropology of textbooks and coffee table books though desired glimpses of plated lips and super stretched labia are few and far between. The fascinating tribes that subscribe to esoteric customs chastised by modern society, live deep in the southern Omo Valley, an often perilous, lengthy and unsuccessful journey through the countryside.  Though the rest of the tourism infrastructure remains largely underdeveloped, Ethiopia’s ‘must-sees’ - the rock-hewn churches of Lalibela, the dramatic volcano cliffs of the Simien Mountains and the endemic wildlife of the Bale Mountains – are well within reach during a ten day visit.  

Your own memories of Ethiopia will soon erase the implanted images of pseudo-humanitarian Sally Struthers, swapping the bloated belly, fly-laden child icon with the full volume of Amharic music from buses, the call of Gelada baboons, the sanctity of the country’s churches, the taste and texture of injera (Ethiopian bread), or the spices and smells of regional wats (stews). Without a doubt, Ethiopia will ambush your senses. 

Be warned, however. Ethiopia is definitely not for the faint-hearted traveller, and GLBT travellers should note that homosexuality remains illegal and socially unacceptable. While there have been no reports of visitors imprisoned for homosexual activity (it’s a 5 year sentence), it’s best to keep personal preferences on the DL or to avoid this destination if you feel socially offended by these laws. 

Simien Mountains

In the far north of Ethiopia, the spectacular plateaus, volcanic escarpments and river valleys of the Simien Mountains transport you to both the top and the end of the world. Most jagged mountain peaks and look out points of this spectacular National Park and World Heritage Site stand at 12,000 feet above sea level, none more so than Ras Dashen, Ethiopia’s highest mountain. Your Simien experience begins at the National Park headquarters in Debark, where you plan your desired route through marginally paved trails, purchase supplies for your trek, and probably spend a night at the very basic Simien Park Hotel.  Those who want to cheat and skip the epic journey by foot can opt for a few nights at the relatively posh Simien Lodge (simiens.com). Located quite close to the entrance of the park, the Simien Lodge still presents an opportunity to interact with wildlife, but fails to immerse visitors in raw nature. However, the Lodge readily serves as a base camp for extended day trips. Once in the national park, ambles and treks, long and short, present the chance to spot Walia Ibex, rock hyrax, jackals, wattled ibis, and the rarest canid in the world, the Ethiopian wolf, and Simien’s most charismatic species – the Gelada Baboon.  

In fact, the main draw of the Simien Mountains is a rare insight into the social dynamics and interactions of the famous, endemic Gelada Baboons in their home territory. You have most likely seen the majestic, outrageous beasts on a Discovery Channel or Animal Planet special at some point in your life and marvelled at their bizarre world. Also called the bleeding heart baboon, the mighty Geladas have evolved to live in social groups numbering in the hundreds. Observing the massive baboons feeding on grass and roots, pounding at the earth with deafening force and asserting dominance through acts of aggression and voluminous calls invokes both fright and excitement upon unguarded human observers. Unlike other baboons, which flaunt mating skin near their rears (fostering an eye-sore of a severely puckered and swollen anus), the mating skin of Geladas is found on the chest. During oestrus, the female's distinctive chest patch will become bright red and inflamed with fluid-filled blisters.  The home of these feral creatures, at the summit of Ethiopia’s dry but cold highlands, unveils a backdrop of dramatic cliffs, sharp precipices, and inspirational scenery that feels like the far end of the world.  

Lalibela

The Orthodox Christian rock-hewn churches of Lalibela reveal the depth of an ancient religious history which has both scarred and blessed this sacred land. Hand-carved out of rock in the 12th and 13th centuries with incredible vision and foresight, the eleven free-standing churches of Lalibela are timeless feats of architecture. Characterized by high roofs, the churches are also globally famous for carvings and frescos that appear to defy gravity and age. In particular, the church of Bet Giyorgis, dedicated to St. George, patron saint of Ethiopia, stuns visitors with its foundational erection – a Greek cross 45 feet tall.  Barefoot wanders through the cool musty air of Bet Giyorgis and the other ten churches evokes deep fascination and reflection.  During the January festivals of Leddet and Timkat, hundreds of Ethiopians dress in traditional white cotton gabis and pay homage to the power, history, and traditions of Lalibela. During the Timkat festival, each churches’ replica of the Ark of the Covenant, known as tabot, is removed and paraded around town.  

Bale Mountains

Although off the regular tourist trail in the south east of Ethiopia, the Bale Mountains are the ultimate nature-lovers paradise. The largely un-graded road makes for a bumpy 165km, from Shashemene – the official capital of Ethiopia’s Rastafarian community – but climbing up into the highlands and feeling the air cool, the destination is definitely worth the journey. Ranging from 4500 to 12000 feet above sea level, the Bale Mountains National Park is an array of habitats hosting a number of endemic species. Even at the National Park headquarters in Dinsho, where trekking routes begin, the endemic mountain nyala, duiker, reedbucks, bushbucks and warthog roam freely. Dramatically different from the grasslands on the North side of the park, the Afro-alpine habitat of the Sanetti Plateau is home to the largest population of the Ethiopian Wolf, Canis simensis. Despite being the world’s rarest canid, the elegant wolves are easily spotted amongst the holes of giant mole rats, giant lobelia and in the right season, red-hot pokers (Kniphofia foliosa) as far as the eye can see. Descending 3000 feet through the clouds down the Harenna escarpment you emerge in moist tropical forest where giant forest hogs, bushpigs, colobus and the Bale monkey live. Harder to spot are the lion, leopard and African wild dogs that live in the park. As in the Simien Mountains, the high altitude means severe temperature extremes on a daily basis.  

Addis Ababa

The sprawling capital Addis Ababa merits a short visit en route to Ethiopia’s more spectacular sights. A rare delight in capital cities, Faranjis or foreigners, are able to take in Ethiopian history from the museums and monuments and enjoy the bustle of Ethiopian markets relatively hassle free.  Catering for every traveller, Addis has hotels and restaurants for African Union leaders and backpackers alike, but the capital’s specialty is undoubtedly the food. For those who have experienced Ethiopian food in the West, you know it’s flavors, textures, and smells are like no other. Most food is prepared as thick stews, bursting with spices. Injera, a sourdoughish crêpe made from a cereal crop called teff, is used instead of cutlery to eat the stews, best accomplished with your right hand (yes the left one is used for ass wiping). Celebrating the birthplace of coffee, an Ethiopian coffee ceremony is also an essential experience for visitors. Perched on tiny stools, surrounded by fresh grass on the ground and incense in the air, coffee beans are roasted on a charcoal stove, ground with pestle and mortar and brewed to perfection right in front of you.  

Portions of this article were provided by local Ethiopian resident, Charlene Watson.