Deep in the southern hemisphere at the crossroads of three nations, stands one of nature’s most awe-inspiring wonders. Merging the power and strength of 275 waterfalls across a width of 1.67 miles, Iguazu Falls mercilessly beats the earth with a water flow in excess of 500,000 gallons per second to produce a stunning panorama that stimulates both body and soul.  From the thunderous crash of rushing waters, to the acute whip of residual mist, to the formation of juxtaposed rainbows across a visible mile, the verdant clad cascades exemplify raw nature in its finest form.  F**k Niagara – this is the real deal! 

The falls themselves define the border between the mammoth countries of Argentina and Brazil and lesser-known Paraguay; and the exceptional tourist infrastructure on both the Brazilian and Argentinean sides of the falls permits visitors to experience Iguazu at all angels, positions, and vantage points - in full splendor. Depending on the season and weather patterns, the depth and breadth of the falls deviate dramatically week-to-week. Cascading waters tend to be browner and thicker in summer, clearer and gentler in winter (remember: seasons are reversed in South America). Guides say they never get tired of seeing the falls because they never look the same two days in a row. 

On all days, flora and fauna abounds and surrounds, having adapted to the harsh conditions of this subtropical rainforest. Blue Morpho butterflies perch on outlying branches while curious counterparts take every opportunity to sample the sweat of your body and backpack. Capuchins, sloths, and toucans rule the trees above you while coatis and agoutis attempt to sneak off with your food at rest points. Where Costa Rica has capitalized on an eco-tourism economy based on these critters of the rainforest, it’s just an added bonus when visiting the world’s widest waterfalls.  

Next stop: Iguazu National Park, Argentina 

While visiting the falls from both the Argentina and Brazil side is ideal, one side is usually enough. With less logistical complications, greater cost-effectiveness, and preferred viewing areas, Argentina is the clear victor (Note: You need a pre-arranged visa to enter Brazil, completed in your home country at the cost of $130. No visa is required for Argentina). Your actual visit to the falls requires a full day of 8-10 hours, depending on your interests and personal waterfall saturation point.  This means flying into the closet city of Puerto Iguazu the day before, having a good rest that afternoon/evening, and waking up early for your excursion the following morning (or very early if you are interested in bird-watching and seeing toucans). 

At a minimum, your day in Iguazu National Park, Argentina should include complete exploitation of the park’s fantastic infrastructure and varied activities in order to experience the falls from above, below, alongside, and even inside. Explorations along the “Upper Basin Trail” reveal the panoramas of coffee table books. Hikes along the “Lower Basin Trail” lead to the end of one rainbow and the start of another. The trek to the largest fall of all, “Garganta del Diablo” or “Devil’s Throat”, climaxes at the “throat’s” opening, a spellbinding interaction with deadly force of nature. The “Great Adventure Zodiac” drives directly into the base of the falls, miraculously avoiding treacherous whirlpools and entering the falls just deep enough to avoid getting swallowed alive. Each of these avenues provides a totally different perspective of the falls and surrounding ecology.  At all points have your camera ready for amazing photos! 

Get Me There Now! 

All flights to Puerto Iguazu originate from the centrally located airport in Argentina’s capital, the Buenos Aires-Aeroparque. This is not the same airport where international flights arrive (EZE), so take it as a sign to spend at least a few days in the gay Mecca of Buenos Aires and then head south!  Once you arrive in Puerto Iguazu, transportation to and from the falls is easily arranged through your hotel (as is transportation to and from the Puerto Iguazu airport).  

With over 150 hotels catering to the 1,000,000 plus tourists visiting the falls annually, two hotels in particular offer creature comforts and an ideal reprieve from the hyper humidity, 100 degree temperatures, and sometimes difficult terrain.  The gay-friendly Iguazu Grand Hotel & Casino remains the only regional establishment with the coveted “Leading Hotel of the World “ honor. The polished yet casual 108 room resort spans 19 acres complete with four non-imposing buildings equipped with oversized suites, a bustling casino (where I won $280), a full gym and spa area, three pools (plus an indoor lap pool), 2 restaurants, and tennis courts (casinoiguazu.com, (01154) 3757-49-8050). The nearby Panoramic Hotel grants a more modern feel and a younger crowd with a pool deck that boasts the best sunset views in town (panoramic-hoteliguazu.com, (01154) 3757-49-8050). Located near the national park, these hotels provide the feel of a top Caribbean resort a short drive away from the falls themselves.